-- Entry Form --

Get out the digital. Break out the old 35mm. Turn your photographs into fame and fortune. Prizes will be awarded to the top entries in each category and the “Best of Show” photo. Winning photos may be included in the 1st annual NSAA calendar, available for sale at the 2009 annual meeting.

So throw your camera in the backpack and start looking for those fabulous shots that make living and skiing in Alaska so special. Barry Johnson and his hand-picked panel of experts will be reviewing submissions at the season’s end to select the very best shots. Winners will be announced at next year’s annual meeting.

Deadline for submission is May 10, 2008.

Details, Details:

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Note from Barry Johnson

The 2008 NSAA photo contest is about to make its debut. A better place for photo enthusiasts than Alaska would be hard to find. Spring is a prime time for ski photography: the snow is deep and the warmer weather with sunshine returning to the mountains and trails make picture taking fun and rewarding. No more cameras and fingers freezing up, no more sun going down before it ever came up.
I usually put my Alaska PFD straight in the bank for a rainy day. But this year I decided it was time to buy a new camera — of course, with permission from “she who must be obeyed”. The latest SLR digital cameras have all the features of top quality film SLR’s and the prices are way down from a few years ago. So what camera should I buy? There are so many good cameras out there that I got befuddled from reading all the reviews and technical info on the Internet. I was mainly interested in sports and outdoor photos. Seeking advice, I called in at a local camera shop and had a chat with the manager. It was a good idea; he didn’t hesitate.

Canon had just put a new camera on the market, the 40D, and he had bought one for himself. It was under the PFD price ceiling. It took 6.5 shots a second, had an image stabilization 28-135mm zoom lens with auto focus and many other bells, whistles and a few french horns. A how-to book for newbies on operating this technical mind boggler will be published this month — I need it! At the moment I just switch to sports mode and fire away. My old digital camera had a third of a second delay after the button was pushed, so if I took a decent sports shot, it was pure luck, though it was fine for still pictures. I’ll be 70 next year and I have enough trouble operating the cell phone, GPS, computer, TV, VCR and CD remotes. (I don’t have an I-Pod or a Blackberry, whatever they are.) If I ever make to 80 I’ll probably throw the whole lot out of the window except for the TV, microwave and the cooking stove.

Expert photographers David Predeger, Fran Durner and Mike Dinneen will be reviewing submissions at the season’s end to select the very best shots. Winners will be announced at the next annual meeting in the fall. A submission form having the rules and guidelines for the contest is in this newsletter and on the Nsaa website. The deadline for entries is May 10th.

Prizes will be awarded to the top three entries in each category and the “Best of Show” photo. Winning photos may be included in the first annual NSAA calendar, available for sale at the annual fall meeting.

Winter Photography Tips
By David Predeger

Winter can be the most challenging as well as the most gratifying season to get outside and hone your photography skills. With pre-planning and precautions you will discover noteworthy situations where dramatic images will pop up. Tips that follow will enhance your enjoyment and the resulting photos.
In a cold climate as Alaska, it is critical to keep your cameras dry and cool. Avoid taking your equipment into a warm, humid building or vehicle. If you do, condensation will form on the lens and camera; this moisture will freeze when you return outside. A small hairdryer can warm up the equipment enabling you to safely move your gear outside. If you must take it indoors, a plastic bag inside a tightly closed camera bag usually works. Carry spare batteries and keep them warm in a pocket close to your body.
Before you shoot, scout out your location and consider background. A great action photo can lose its appeal if the subject has a light pole or some other distracting element coming out of his or her head. Try changing your angle, look for the unusual, maybe a shot with the camera close to the surface of the snow, through some tree branches, or a dramatic sunburst. Experiment with shutter speed if your camera allows you to manually override the automatic mode. Shoot at a slow speed for a blur effect, follow the subject and “pan” for an action effect. Ideally when this technique works, the subject is sharply in focus and the background is blurred to show horizontal action. This method is always impressive and is worth a try.

As spring gives way to longer bright sunlit winter days, capturing the properly exposed image can be tricky. In sunlit conditions it's even more important to avoid over-exposing images. Set the exposure while framing a bright area, compensate by lowering the EV value, or use spot metering. If your camera offers a histogram, use it to make sure no part of the image is overexposed. Be careful not to under-expose so your snow looks white, not too gray.

In very bright sunlight you can actually use a flash. This technique may seem counter-intuitive and you likely do not need more light; however, the flash balances out the natural light and can fill in the shadows nicely. If the snow is side-lit you will see lots of detail as pure white snow shows no detail or depth. Similarly, if the day is overcast, point your light meter on the snow and overexpose by 1 to 2 stops. This will eliminate the appearance of grey or dreary images that are often associated with winter photography.
When shooting on those cold winter days, you may find that extreme winter temperatures preclude the opportunity to take off your gloves and change controls on the camera. If this is the case try bracketing the exposure; in other words take one at normal exposure, one underexposed and one overexposed. Some cameras actually will do this automatically. All cameras are different (although basically similar) so read your camera instruction manual thoroughly before hitting the outdoor elements.

Dress comfortably and you can enjoy the winter photo opportunities. Hypothermia and frostbite are real hazards while working outside in Alaska. Always tell someone where you’re going and when you expect to return and always carry the proper gear. Dress in layers, as opposed to wearing a thick heavy snowsuit. Start with a wicking layer of polypropylene or some other high-tech material. And end the layering with breathable type wind protection material. Gloves can make or break a day of shooting. Use a pair of lightweight gloves under heavy mittens. Slip off the mittens when you need the manual dexterity to manipulate the camera controls. Chemical heat packs work wonders when your hands and feet get cold. Pop one into each mitten and boot to stay warm and comfortable.

With all this in mind you might be surprised with the images that you capture during the winter months. Once you become accustomed to cold weather photography and become familiar with the techniques used in winter shooting, you will find that winter can be a great time to get out and capture those amazing Alaskan winter scenes. Experiment with your gear and shooting techniques, keep warm, have fun and rewarding images will surely follow.

David Predeger is a freelance photographer who has been photographing Alaskan outdoors since 1974.